Refrigerator 2 DOOR (NO FROST / NOT snowing)
1. The most frequent complaint I have encountered is in the frezzer cold but ice can not freeze, while the lower part is not at all cold, inner wall / back of the room frezzer arise when it should be a little snowy ... no snow.
ð This is due to non-functioning of the system no frost in the freezer. So the frost on the evaporator (cooling element) thicken and eventually cover the ventilation channels. Or it could also be damage to the blower fan itself. As we know for this type of refrigerator relies smooth air circulation in the room fridge. Air inside the room where the fridge is sucked by the blower fan passes the evaporator / cooling element and then exhaled back throughout the room fridge. And so on until which achieved the desired cold.
ð As if the system is not functioning no frost, damage may occur on HEATER, DEFROST TIMER, bimetal, THERMO FUSE, clogged drains SLIME / moss.
To help us in dealing with electrical problems on the fridge, you should note that generally attached electric scheme attached at the back of the refrigerator (see picture).
To help us in dealing with electrical problems on the fridge, you should note that generally attached electric scheme attached at the back of the refrigerator (see picture).
ð HEATER
Part is in the form of heating element is protected by a glass tube and the outer covering of zinc or aluminum plate that serves to melt the frost on the evaporator to prevent buildup that can clog air circulation. It is located just below the evaporator behind the rear wall of the room frezzer. Damage to these components can be due to age that had aging, poor quality / factory defect, so the water drains clogged and flooded heater during the freezing of the protective glass element heater broke. Checking the condition of the heater element can be done with a multi tester on the cable through the X10 scale indicated on the schematic / diagram warnannya. Or can be done by directly connecting the 2 wires on the bimetal, but before make sure the position of the timer on the heater.
When performing replacement Heater Element, in some cabinets we had to remove / lift the evaporator. Do it slowly and be extra careful. given space in the room frezzer hobble. Because if you are in a hurry and do not care, the pipe on the evaporator can be broken or cracked resulting in leakage of the refrigerant.
Part is in the form of heating element is protected by a glass tube and the outer covering of zinc or aluminum plate that serves to melt the frost on the evaporator to prevent buildup that can clog air circulation. It is located just below the evaporator behind the rear wall of the room frezzer. Damage to these components can be due to age that had aging, poor quality / factory defect, so the water drains clogged and flooded heater during the freezing of the protective glass element heater broke. Checking the condition of the heater element can be done with a multi tester on the cable through the X10 scale indicated on the schematic / diagram warnannya. Or can be done by directly connecting the 2 wires on the bimetal, but before make sure the position of the timer on the heater.
When performing replacement Heater Element, in some cabinets we had to remove / lift the evaporator. Do it slowly and be extra careful. given space in the room frezzer hobble. Because if you are in a hurry and do not care, the pipe on the evaporator can be broken or cracked resulting in leakage of the refrigerant.
ð DEFROST TIMER
Is a timer that regulates working time compressor and heater elements are driven by a small electric motor, but there is also a form of electronic circuits (digital timer) that is often used in the refrigerator door classy 3-4. Where the compressor works automatically when the heater element does not work vice versa. The length of the heater element works on 1x lap timer range is approximately 15 minutes. To connect the cable to the defrost timer can be seen in its electrical scheme.
Location of defrost timer is usually on the back / bottom of the refrigerator near the compressor or covered cable terminal box with a small hole for a screwdriver to rotate the timer. There is also that it is located behind / above near the fan motor / blower.
Is a timer that regulates working time compressor and heater elements are driven by a small electric motor, but there is also a form of electronic circuits (digital timer) that is often used in the refrigerator door classy 3-4. Where the compressor works automatically when the heater element does not work vice versa. The length of the heater element works on 1x lap timer range is approximately 15 minutes. To connect the cable to the defrost timer can be seen in its electrical scheme.
Location of defrost timer is usually on the back / bottom of the refrigerator near the compressor or covered cable terminal box with a small hole for a screwdriver to rotate the timer. There is also that it is located behind / above near the fan motor / blower.
ð Bimetal / DEFROST THERMOSTAT
This tool is a real function switch / switch that works based on temperature. Generally protected thick plastic pressed the waterproof and attaches to the top of the evaporator evaporator pretty cool .. When the two wires connected to the bimetallic supplying voltage directly to the heater. However, new heater works when defrost timer already in position. When the timer motor and the compressor does not work. After melting the frost on the evaporator then connect the two wires on the bimetal timer automatically disconnects and re-worked to turn the compressor.
ð THERMOFUSE
The shape is equal to the thermofuse on iron or magic com. Only in the refrigerator wrapped in thick pelastik watertight and attaches to the bottom of the evaporator. Function as a safety when the bimetal is not working and continue supplying voltage to the heater, causing excessive heat in the evaporator.
The shape is equal to the thermofuse on iron or magic com. Only in the refrigerator wrapped in thick pelastik watertight and attaches to the bottom of the evaporator. Function as a safety when the bimetal is not working and continue supplying voltage to the heater, causing excessive heat in the evaporator.
ð Clogged drains SLIME / moss.
Symptoms can be seen from the discharge of water reservoirs but not in the fridge and into the room dripping in the bottom of the door. If you let it get worse in the case of freezing and there will be a total blockage shingga flooded water heater and eventually destroying it.
Symptoms can be seen from the discharge of water reservoirs but not in the fridge and into the room dripping in the bottom of the door. If you let it get worse in the case of freezing and there will be a total blockage shingga flooded water heater and eventually destroying it.
Refrigerator not cold at all in all the room (refrigerator 1 door)
2.
ð Notice if the compressor is working or not. If the compressor works but the air that is blown blower still does not feel cold there may have been a leak in the refrigerant, or freon pipeline deadlock. For a problem like this I usually hand over to the experts which of course has been supported with adequate equipment.
ð If the compressor tdak work at all, check the TEG. 220v AC input if already signed or not. If the terminal voltage of 220VAC at the cable there but the compressor still does not work ..., check the overload on the compressor, defrost thermostat or the timer (in freezer 2 door)
ð If no response but the compressor will not start, just buzzing and die when hot. Try replacing the starter PTC (if the cable input to the compressor 2 pieces), or cable input capacitor if there are 3 pieces. But some capacitor in the freezer are located rather far from the compressor and sometimes hidden room of the refrigerator. To this note on the refrigerator schematic diagram.
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