Refrigerator (one door) is a refrigerator that is the way it works is simple compared to other refrigerators. The refrigerator door is not equipped with air circulation aids such as fan and defrost as frost remover automatically, so that the damage that occurs in most refrigerator doors in the refrigerant system. The following are some of the causes of the door refrigerator not cold which often happens: Leak refrigerant, or Freon refrigerant in the system resulting in the cooling process is not going well because the lack of refrigerant as the heat transfer medium from the refrigerator to the outside of the refrigerator.
Occurred which resulted in damage to the compressor refrigerant circulation is not maximal, so that will reduce the cooling process is not even cold at all depending on how severe the damage to the compressor.
Deadlock occurs resulting in the refrigerant system refrigerant circulation process is not smooth. Deadlocked on the refrigerant system usually occurs in a capillary tube for capillary hole diameter smaller than the diameter of the pipe there are others.
Damage to electricity which covers the entire chain of electrical components such as PTC, thermostat, and overload. These components have their respective functions are so important that if there is damage to one of these components will result in the refrigerator is not cold.
Refrigerator door is not completely closed this usually happens because the rubber door on the refrigerator door is not flat or torn resulting in cold air in the refrigerator that are exchanged with the air outside the refrigerator, resulting in a low temperature in the refrigerator is hard to achieve.
For refrigerator (two doors)
Talking fridge problems that are familiar, as may be said it is definitely not a luxury item, there is a refrigerator that uses one type of door (aka the snow / ice flowering) and there is also a door that uses two or more (not snowing). Well here we are trying to share information to the reader all of the constraints, or what problem that often occurs in the unit, resulting in a two-door refrigerator not cold of the refrigerator. And we need to know the basic components of what is in the refrigerator two doors and a few ways to overcome them:
1- Thermo-Fuse is located / attached directly on the refrigerator evaporator. Check the doors on most current Evaporator, unplug both ends of the Thermo-fuse then plug in the multitester with sizes x1 or x10 ohm ohm, if the needle moves up multitester pointing a figure that means Themo-fuse component is normal, but if otherwise if the needle moves up multitester not at all the same as the broken immediately replace a new one.
Not recommended for users / user refrigerator to handle this, Call Technician.
2- Refrigerator Timer is located in a wide variety of places, such as on the refrigerator compressor side and also there are in the bottom of the refrigerator door lamp illumination coincided with Thermostat refrigerator. If you want to check the condition of these components please disconnect the cables connected to four and one thing do not forget to mark / label the wires one by one, in the intent is to facilitate the installation again. In the body there is a refrigerator timer numbers 1-2-3-4, in most refrigerator Timer 1 and 3 are for the current rotary motor (the motor turning Timer), please test your legs are number 1 and 3 by using a multitester (x10-scale use ohms or x100 ohms) and if the needle moves up refers to a figure that means the timer motor coil is not damaged, then please try to carefully connect the two legs Timer is number 1 and 3 to a direct electric current (220 volts) and then look at the body Timer such a small boxed transparent in intent was to look round toothed wheel, and if it means that the timer is still spinning the refrigerator can still be used but that does not change the spin is a new request.
Not recommended for users / user refrigerator to handle this, Call Technician.
Defrost Thermo 3- located on refrigerator evaporator, Remove both ends of the cable then put on another refrigerator that is on or in use and place in a temperature of minus / freezer refrigerator then leave for a few minutes (less than 5 s / d 10 minutes. If it then test both ends of the cable with both ends of the stick multitester with sizes x1 or x10 ohm ohm, if the needle moves up refers to a figure that means is normal / function, but if the needle does not move at all means that the component is damaged, replace with new .
Not recommended for users / user refrigerator to handle this, Call Technician.
Fan Motor 4-kept at about / area where there is a refrigerator evaporator. Remove the cables connected to the second leg and then take a multitester Fan Motor and paste the two sticks multitester on two legs Motor Fan (non-polarity), use the x10 ohm scale, if the needle moves up refers to a figure that means the coil (coil) is not damaged / burning (Fan motor is still functioning or rotating). If you still doubt please try carefully connect the two legs of the fan motor with 220 volt electric current, spin Otherwise it means Motor Fan bad, you simply replace it with a new one.
Not recommended for users / user refrigerator to handle this, Call Technician.
5- Cooper strainer or filter refrigerator, is often times also led to Refrigerator not cold because it was too dirty (the onset of the blockage) that interfere with the circulation of refrigerant (known as Freon) which also pass through a capillary tube (capillary tube is a pipe with holes that diameter is very small, ranging from 0.27 "0:31" 0:54 "and 0.70").
Capillary tube which serves as a modifier gaseous refrigerant to a liquid, in a capillary tube and jostling freon into the evaporator.
In the evaporator refrigerant evaporates and takes heat, with bursts of liquid freon reply.
So that the pipes in the evaporator to cool. advice from our release and replace it with a new one.
Not recommended for users / user refrigerator to handle this, Call Technician.
Refrigerator Compressor 6- Well ... if this is the heart of the refrigerator, the compressor pumping Refrigrant (Freon). The effect arises damage to the refrigerator compressor is unstable electrical voltage (up and down) / voltage is too low and that the performance of Compressor become heavier (advice from our pairs STAVOLT / STABILIZER) to prevent unstable voltage, load exceeds the load capacity of the refrigerator, Refrigerator too close the wall / walls of the house, give the distance between the body wall of the fridge with a minimum of 30 cm for better air circulation, do not open the door of the refrigerator too long, make sure both refrigerator doors closed when you leave.
It is recommended for users / user refrigerator.
If you do not know the size of the capacity of the compressor / pk refrigerator that will be changed, you should record the code / type of the fridge and then you ask the showroom brand refrigerator.
when the compressor capacity that will be changed greatness or smallness would make the fridge work performance was not optimal.
it is also necessary to know the charging freon in refrigerator, not as easy as doing the charging freon on ac split.
This is because the fridge uses a capillary tube which differ in size by a capillary tube which is used to split ac and window ac.
with a small capillary tube which makes it vulnerable to deadlock if there is dirt freon flow that carried on when freon flow.
replace the strainer and capillary tube with a new-if you want to replace the damaged compressor with a compressor that new.
tool that is needed to replace a refrigerator compressor is:
1. welding tools that lpg tube and an oxygen tank.
2 manifold.
3. Freon 12 or Freon 134A depending on the specification of data existing in the fridge.
4. nipple freon charging.
5. silver / copper welding wire.
6 pipe cutter / cutter
7 flare-nut / flereng
8. tools / utensils key
refrigerator compressor there are two kinds:
1 compressor piston
2 rotary compressor
piston compressor is widely used in the refrigerator door and two-door, but the two-door refrigerator there is also a type of rotary compressor wear.
in terms of quality it is clear that the compressor types pistonlah most reliable compared to rotary type compressor.
I never replace a refrigerator compressor with a rotary type, on the first day to the third day, the fridge no problem (in the cold / normal).
on the fourth day of stalemate refrigerator freon flow in a capillary tube which causes damage to the compressor rotary compressor valve parts.
I would not want to have to replace the compressor with a compressor that damaged the new-back.
but I did not replace with the same type of compressor, I replaced it with a piston-type compressor, although I have to make an extra holder for a rotary compressor mounting space that is so narrow.
because the rotary compressor in a refrigerator-shaped tube and positioned horizontally in the placement.
refrigerator compressor piston, pipe the output there is a distinguished three and five.
As for the pipes that come out three pieces are:
- A pipe tap / discharge.
- The suction pipe / suction.
- One pipe for charging refrigerant.
pipes that come out five pieces are:
- A pipe tap / discharge
- The suction pipe / suction
- One pipe for charging refrigerant.
- Two pipes for oil cooling compressor which is located at the bottom of the compressor.
before we release the compressor which is damaged by heating the pipe connections and press the suction pipe joints using welding tools.
and before you do the discharge pipe which is at the compressor, unplug the wires that go to make sure the compressor and freon cooling systems / freezer, have you waste !!! everything.
that is by deciding end of pipe sizes 1/8 (about 10 cm long) which are at or throw it through the strainer nipple freon charging.
after compressor plug holder regardless of who the new compressor, if you replace the compressor which uses the starting capassitor means there are three wires that go to the compressor terminal, if not use it means only two wires that go to the compressor.
I suggest before doing the welding, first try running the compressor.
because when the end of the pipe has been welded, the compressor is damaged / bad we can not exchange it back.
when the compressor can operate then you do the welding on the pipe and press the suction pipe.
when the pipeline press made of iron, weld when you use borax to tap the pipeline can be fused with the copper pipe comes out of the tap comppressor.
after the suction pipe and pipe welding press has been completed, switch on the welding nipple freon charging.
while doing welding nipple, nipple to open the seals / rubber does not melt exposed to heat conduction, when installed and wipe with a damp cloth in order to heat the nipple disappear, then reinstall and tighten the seal nipple.
ketahap switch mounting strainer, whatever you want to wear a strainer or strainer contents of silica gel blank / without content of silica gel.
strainer, drain holes for capillary no reply 2 holes and 1 hole (two holes which only made vacuum, pairs 10 cm capillary and jgn welded ends left open.)
when the capillary tube that is in the fridge you can not be replaced / heat exchanger (located inside the capillary suction pipe line / suction) and a deadlock capillary tube, you can change it by removing the evaporator by heating with a welding tool, but before straightening capillary tube for easier pull out the evaporator.
the type refrigerators today suction pipe line / capillary suction and pressed inside the refrigerator body.
if you want to replace the capillary tube can be via the discharge of water or drill a hole body with an electric refrigerator, but be careful not to the condenser pipe.
so the suction pipeline and capillary tube are outside the body of the refrigerator.
after strainer and capillary tube attached / already welded, vacuum refrigerator with a vacuum machine to go to 30 "if you do not have a vacuum machine, vacuum through the holes do strainer.
when it is on manifold vacuum and the needle does not rise above means no leaks in the pipe connections dicompressor, strainer and capillary tube that you just weld.
but when the needle went up manifold still means there is still a leak, searching until you find the leak.
how to use manifolds I've ever written, please read first who do not understand how to use the manifold.
after no space leaks, operasionalkan refrigerator, open the faucet manifold on blue meter needle to the left while looking at the manifold and the existing contents of freon slowly until the pointer number 20 psi, then stop. (repeatedly do not direct the contents to 20 psi so that the compressor does not heat up quickly) compressor amperage also check with clamp meter / ampere pliers.
see how the pressure of refrigerant that has to fill, as he listened for rustling dievaporator freon flow.
when there is a mean flow of freon goes well, contents back to the evaporator average snow-filled (this one for the fridge door)
untu two-door refrigerator we could see it from the elements when the fan motor section above the door when it issued a fog means the process has a maximum cooling.
for charging freon refrigerator can not be done quickly and easily as filling freon on ac split and it takes patience when it turns out after we fill an hour later the freon flow deadlock.
to know that the fridge deadlocked, when we make the filling freon and manifold pressure of 10 psi already showed last unplug the fridge and see what the needle manifold rise in excess of 10 psi above?
when the needle may rise above mean flow of refrigerant in the system running smoothly.
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