There are several complaints on the refrigerator that often occur include:
1 Flower thicker ice more rapidly when the temperature control in the normal position.
2 long ice frozen even temperature control already in the maximum position.
3 The inside of the refrigerator is always wet.
4. water disposal containers are always full of water.
5. compressor never stops.
6. shut the door hard and others.
Complaints had been the result of some damage such as:
1 door hinge.
2 Rust.
3 Rubber door.
Ranked first door hinges caused by frequent opening and closing of the door is filled with quite a lot of heavy load such as bottled water, syrup, soy sauce, etc. so that the bottom of the door is made of plastic, especially on the holes that connected with hinges become worn even in some cases I experienced plastic is broken so the door regardless. corrosion of natural causes resulting in the refrigerator body is attacked by rust poking out so prop the door, especially at the bottom. when one of the causes of the above happens then the "victim" is next door rubber, the rubber is no longer able to insulate the door will no longer attached to the body with precision the refrigerator, so it seems tenuous majority and cause frost to accumulate rapidly in the freezer because the air from outside the containing water was coming in through the gap and over continuously opened and closed its doors after a long time it was torn rubber door because the pressure is not balanced and the rough surface of the body by rust.
Rust can be prevented with routine maintenance such as:
1 Often cleaned of dirt and water, especially syrup, honey or sugar to make sticky rubber door.
2 Do not keep the refrigerator in a damp place or near water sources.
3 Give lubricants (Grease or oil) on the inside of the hinge.
4 Protect all parts of the body outside of the refrigerator with a protective paint paste commonly used for vehicles.
So hopefully useful.
There are two types of refrigerators produced today is the type of direct cooling and no-frost or frost free, direct cooling type is the simplest type while the type of no-frost is a refinement of the type before him, direct cooling type is still in production for a small fridge and freezer, because the system is different in differing complaints in each of these types, especially for the type of no-frost, but this difference lies in its fewer components used direct cooling refrigerator while for the type of no-frost uses more components now even more sophisticated because in both electronic program for the regulation of temperature, duty cycle, compressor control and others.
I will give tips to cope with complaints that are common in no-frost refrigerator manual type.
Problems on the no-frost refrigerator-that's arguably just alias comes from the same source, although different damage the workings of the refrigerator, up to now a common nuisance is not his optimal circulation of cold air passing through the evaporator, the refrigerant cycle while continuing to work eveporator , the outside of the evaporator is too long will be filled with ice to precipitate interest exhaled air fan as a transfer medium that created cold temperatures at the evaporator had become covered in ice and can no longer circulate properly.
And here's some of the causes of ice that meets Evaporator:
The first cause of the problem is the same as 1 door refrigerator which I have written before, click here to see.
dirt clogged drainage of excess water left over food so that the process can not be flushed out defrost and freeze up the airways become clogged due to ice covered.
damage to one or more components which include:
thermo defrost
heater
timer
fan motors
thermo fuse
The order of the components from the most frequent damage according to my experience and depending on the brand and manufacturer that affect the quality of the components.
Normally the frost deposition was to be disbursed by Heater Evaporator which is just below its cycle regulated by a timer, this timer work for the compressor and the electric voltage Heater interchangeably, meaning that when the timer to the defrost position, the compressor will stop working and so on .
The fridge and freezer are applying direct cooling system often leak at the evaporator because the object or frozen food directly above the evaporator so often the case where the incident ice gouging users of this evaporator surface. what would happen if the evaporator is leaking because the knife wound, a screwdriver or other sharp object that is used to clean the ice gouged or attached to the Evaporator? that moment will instantly sound like a hissing sound
nail punctured the tire of your car, if the tires will come out of the wind or air are different from the refrigerator will issue refrigrant or freon gas that smells and makes your breath shortness, if this occurs immediately unplug your refrigerator from the electrical outlet, this is to prevent further damage in the future if you intend to fix the refrigerator and it is no less important that you leave the area immediately around the fridge earlier and seek fresh air that you are breathing may be a little crowded because of inhaling the gas had become normal again.
how to cope with a leaking evaporator is not as simple as a leaking tire overcome this Evaporator made of aluminum so that the process is more difficult and had to be a professional to handle it, well here I will explain how where when I work around this problem:
Prepare a special glue to patch the evaporator (can be bought in store refrigeration engineering tools) but can also be used Araldite or Loctite, an area that is leaking must be completely clean and free from oil remnants that come out carried with freon this is important because as good any glue that will be useless if we use will be at the glue surfaces not clean.
In order leaking area was completely clean and free of oil until it gets we can use liquid Freon R-11 (actually forbidden) for draining gentlemen perhaps just no residual water ice that melts in through the hole that leaked earlier, by using liquid freon R-11 all of which are in the line at the evaporator was going to run out.
As shown in the figure, the blue area is the area that has more than one channel so that we can close the lanes by leveling the surface of the hollow beat until smooth manner using a plastic hammer or rubber mallet, then hampelas first until it runs out of paint and feels slightly rough .
if it is a leak red diarea way as above do not apply because there is no longer a hole as an alternative channel of its flow of refrigerant as the blue area, you first have to patch the leak using a thin plate such as used beverage cans, are not necessary 1cm too big enough box or round but if the leak is large elongated eg 1cm then the plates had to be made longer as well, this is to prevent the glue into the cavity to cover the freon lines earlier.
When gluing process should take place first heat the area to be glued before using a hair dryer to warm-up, in this way proved to create a stronger glue stick and very hard when dry.
So please try this trick may be useful, if you appreciate the time and the leak was considered too difficult for the new replaced the evaporator should be patched.
In a cooling system like AC, Fridge, Freezer, Chiller, Show case etc. The compressor is a vital component that serves to circulate the refrigerant gas. if the compressor is corrupt, the owner generally reluctant to replace it with the reason the price is quite expensive, 1 door refrigerator compressor price alone could be priced not far adrift with the purchase price of a used refrigerator that is still worth taking.
There are several types of damage that can still be improved on these devices such as damage to his electro motor windings and mechanical damage, damage rolls would be rewound while for damage
mechanical like pistons, reed valve etc, unfortunately for the small size compressor no new parts are sold, so we can only replace it from another compressor copotan results, to repair the damage before we have to divide the compressor and must be done carefully and clean .
If one day your refrigerator experiencing the unexpected, better listening tips from me on how to check the condition of the "health" of your refrigerator compressor, in case helpful.
Checking electro motor windings in the compressor:
Let the refrigerator in a state on, prepare major appliances such as screwdriver, pliers, Multitester and if there is a clamp meter.
Setting clamp meter (commonly called tang amperes) at amperage measurement position, tuck the cables connected to the overload switch into the ring clamp meter and note the results of his measurements should be lower or the same as the data written specifications of the refrigerator plant earlier, for example when writing "current : 0,6amp "then the measurement results should be the same or slightly lower but if exceed please check first whether the mains voltage as needed (220v) or not, if the sound generated is more rugged compressor can result in a measurable increase in ampere.
Setting multitester on the position of the AC current measurements, with pen measuring multitester connected to the floor first and then the other to the compressor body (make sure the compressor gets baud suppose unpainted ground in the compressor or its copper pipes, see if there is voltage measured in the multi-tester results of step earlier, if there is no meaningful rolls in good condition
Checking electro motor windings in the compressor section 2.
turn off the refrigerator by pulling the plug from the socket
open the socket cover electric compressors that are usually on the left or right side of the compressor (see picture)
disconnect and overload relay from its socket.
setting on the multi-tester ohm meter position.
paste into the body of the pen multitester compressor and the other 3 pieces connect to the socket located on the compressor, one by one, if there is no resistance at all three sockets this means that the measured electrical compressor motor is really in good condition.
Checking electro motor windings in the compressor:
Still on the to 3 Pin or socket located on the compressor and a multitester on ohm meter position, the third measure this socket in a way to overload the socket plugged into a mains socket or socket eg C (usually be at the top or bottom / side by side is not) associated with the socket S and then C again with R, from the results of these measurements should be obtained resistance between 15 to 25 ohms for the measurement of C (common) with R (running) and 20 to 40 ohms for the C (common) with S (start), if the results measurement is 0 ohms means the winding / electro motor windings short-circuit / broken.
Note:
Use footwear and gloves are dry when you want to do this job.
Benchmark measurements presented especially for refrigerator compressor 1 door / under 100 watts.
Do you know if the relay PTC (positive temperature coefficient) which is applied to most of present-day refrigerator appears to have dual functions, objects that usually form a small black box and this is in the cold state serves as a liaison between the pin R (run) with S (start ) when the compressor start operation (starting) will change as a function of the capacitor when it has become hot shortly after the compressor work, its value is in the range of 8 to 12 micro farrad, consequently if a compressor using these relays are used electricity consumption will be lower if the compressor is similar the use of capacitors running
Although it has disadvantages compared to regular relay (mechanical) because it will take some time when I have to restart but in fact safer ptc relay for compressor overload especially when combined with homemade 4TM Klixon® which is designed to be used with this relay, why is it safe? .. .. because after work circulates refrigerant compressor or freon freon pressure in the cooling system is not equitable and freon pressures are highest in the condenser so at this point would be difficult to restart the compressor is still high due to the pressure in the condenser was first lane is a freon circulates, so requiring first time that the pressure evenly for about 3 to 5 minutes, enough time so that it becomes cold PTC relay and the compressor is ready to operate again.
The refrigerator or freezer so that you continue to work optimally do was regular maintenance, such as cleaning the inside and outside, if necessary clean also the rear where there are vital tools such as compressors, usually in this area is his hiding place rats and insects which often resulted in this electronic tool work uninterrupted even can not operate at all, remember ... before starting this work should be detachable power plug or plugs to avoid the risk of electric shock.
Refrigerator and Freezer have a way of working also means that the same treatment even seem trivial but cleaning the body from the dirt can increase the ability of these tools most do not approach the capabilities when it was new, so why is because as you probably already know that when the refrigerator and freezer this work is part of the outside body will feel warm even when in the early summer tend to operate, and therefore the dirt on these parts must be cleaned so that the heat can occur more quickly airborne free, keep this equipment from the wall or walls and other tools around her, do not miss to not store other items on top of it and if it is willing to sweeten the look by placing cloths or other try the width of the cloth is not too width exceeds the width of the refrigerator and freezer to make sure it warm steam from the body is not restrained by this cloth.
Well I hope that now in addition to a refrigerator or freezer in your home look "fresh" because it was cleaner than that as such these tools back to work optimally and it certainly added a long service life.
For practitioners of the cooling system would have been familiar with the ingredients coolant / refrigerant such as:
1. CFCs (chlorofluorocarbons) R-12.
2 HCFCs (HydroChloroFluorCarbons) R-22.
3 HFC (HydroFluorCarbons) R-134a.
The third ingredient is a popular cooling synthetic coolants, R-12 and R-22 containing ozone-depleting substances and pose the highest heating. the use of R-134A to replace R-12 is highly recommended for refrigerators and car air conditioning, a halt to the production of Freon R-12 was replaced with Suva® 134a (product of DuPont ™) does not mean the problem has been completed since the R-134a is still causing global warming.
touched on the environmentally friendly has actually been there even longer marketed and used materials from alternative refrigerant blend several types of natural gas and propane as Matane called coolants (refrigerant) Hydrocarbon, some of which are:
1 HC 12 to replace the refrigerator and air conditioning refrigerant before the car uses R-12 (dichlorodifluoromethane) and R-134a (Tetrafluoroethane).
2 HC 22 for the AC house or building previously used R-22 (CHLORODIFLUOROMETHANE).
3 HC 502 and chiller for industrial use previously used R-502 (CHLORODIFLUOROMETHANE / Chloropentafluoroethane) etc,
Hydrocarbon refrigerants have been widely circulated both foreign and domestic products (Musicool), this material is highly flammable so it requires extra handling when using it, hydrocarbon-based coolants do not require changes to the old system because it can be directly loaded and no need to replace existing oil but it is highly recommended to improve the security system to be able to anticipate the situation in case of leaks.
There are several complaints on the refrigerator that often occur include: 
